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The Weekender: Amenia, New York

Visit a veritable writer’s retreat (complete with world-class dining and skiing) in the heart of New York’s Hudson Valley

Getting out of New York City once in a while–for locals and frequent visitors alike–is essential. Fresh air, birds that aren’t pigeons, and true peace and quiet are all just a quick train ride or drive away, and the view on the way out to the Hudson Valley truly can’t be beat. Here, we zero in on the charming New York town of Amenia tucked away along Dutchess County’s eastern border, where a bucolic Champalimaud-designed retreat awaits, steeped in centuries of history and home to some of the area’s best dining and drinking. Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend at Troutbeck.


Where to Stay:

Troutbeck, a striking historic estate that once welcomed some of history’s most prominent figures (think Martin Luther King, Jr., Ernest Hemingway, and Teddy Roosevelt, to name a few), is worth the trip to Amenia all on its own. Since its origins in the late 18th century as a private estate, Troutbeck has shape-shifted into a handful of different hotels by various owners over the years, and most recently, the esteemed Champalimaud family has breathed new life into it with designer Alexandra reimagining its visual identity after she, her son hotelier Anthony Champalimaud, and his wife Charlie acquired the property in 2016. Today, Troutbeck might have a fresh, new face, but its storied past lives on within its walls. This is a place to tuck in next to a fireplace, revel in the cozy setting, and maybe start writing something you’ve been meaning to get to for some time now. It’s just got that air about it.

Bedroom at Troutbeck

Where to Eat:

Above all, you must eat at Troutbeck’s very own restaurant (and cap it with a nightcap or two at the copper-wrapped bar. This is some of the very best dining and drinking in the area and depending on how long you’re staying, you might not ever have to leave the property (the menu typically changes daily). A meal at the all-day Dining Room is a refined yet hardly stuffy affair, with flawless service and comforting farm-to-table fare made from locally-sourced ingredients. Explore a carefully-curated wine list and the perfectly adventurous cocktails. Pro tip: if you dine on a Tuesday, go for chef’s burger special.


Should you decide to venture out into the town or neighboring areas, there are plenty of dining options, ranging from casual to upscale (the team at Troutbeck will be more than happy to provide recommendations or assist with reservations). Some of the go-to spots in the area, according to the hotel’s team, include Canoe Hill in Millbrook for oysters and drinks and Barbaro (also in Millbrook), a local favorite for Italian fare. If you’re looking for a casual lunch and a great cup of tea, visit the Harney & Sons tasting bar and lounge in Millerton, which has 250 different teas on offer.


What to Do:

During the winter months, you’ll definitely want to get at least one ski day in–Catamount Mountain Resort is a quick 35- to 40-minute drive away, situated on Mount Fray in the Taconic Range in Hillsdale. With a robust trail network, four chairlifts, private lessons, night skiing, lovely lodge areas, and more, it’s a perfect ski destination for the whole family.


On property at Troutbeck, there’s plenty to do and experience all year round, including a pool table, yoga and Pilates programming, a rotating art collection, lounge areas with roaring fireplaces, and a pool area and tennis court (weather permitting). The hotel can also arrange for a picnic lunch upon request.