Restaurant critic Joshua David Stein dines at Aldea with his mother-in-law—a Brazil native—during the chef's new menu series
When I first got married, my wife, who is Brazilian, told me I should learn Portuguese. "But, Ana," I said, "it's of such limited applicability. Unless I'm in Brazil or Portugal, when will I ever speak it?" Ana responded that I was being insensitive and that if I thought being ...
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