How Sweet It Is

by Natasha Wolff | October 28, 2013 12:00 am

The treats of Halloween[1] come in all shapes and sizes, from peanut butter-filled pumpkins to a classic chocolate kiss. But if these sugary staples sound a bit less than thrilling, your palette is in luck this season. Some of the world’s most celebrated sweets are now quite literally at your fingertips as Payard Desserts[2], a book of striking recipes from the world-famous chef François Payard released October 29.

With recipes from Payard’s 20 years in the business—he began as a pastry chef in France before becoming recognized in the U.S.—the book offers recipes and mouthwatering photos for some truly decadent sweets, the likes of which most people never imagined could come from our own kitchens. And if that’s not better than a fun-sized chocolate bar, what is? 

Here are three of our favorite recipes from Payard Desserts. Fair warning: You won’t want to share them with trick or treaters.

Rice Crispies with Milk Chocolate and Crispy Chocolate Phyllo

(Pictured right) Makes 8 servings 
  
This dessert, which combines the flavors of milk chocolate, nuts, and caramel, was very popular at Payard, and it was also great for the kitchen from a production standpoint. Every element could be prepared ahead, and it was very easy to plate, so we could make it for parties of 600 or 700 with no problem. The Chocolate Phyllo is very elegant, and it’s also very easy to make in large quantities, a bonus for the kitchen. I think diners loved this dessert not only for its rich flavors, but also for its contrasting textures: creamy Chocolate Chantilly combined with a crispy milk chocolate–hazelnut cereal base and cocoa phyllo garnish, and a luxurious caramel sauce. In the texture department, this dessert has it all! 
  
Components 
Rice Crispy Disks 
Chocolate Chantilly 
Chocolate Phyllo 
Caramelized Nuts 
Caramel Sauce 
  
Special Equipment 
2¾-inch round pastry cutter; candy thermometer; squeeze bottle 
  
Rice Crispy Disks 
4.2 oz milk chocolate, melted 
3.2 oz white chocolate, melted 
1½ cups praline paste 
2 tsp peanut oil 
4 cups crispy rice cereal, such as Rice Krispies 
  
1. Line a half-sheet pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, stir together the melted chocolates, praline paste, and peanut oil until blended and completely smooth. Add the cereal and gently fold into the chocolate mixture until evenly coated. Spread the mixture onto the prepared pan into an even 8 by 12-inch rectangle. Place the sheet pan into the freezer for 10 minutes, or until set. 
  
2. Using a 2¾-inch round cutter, cut out 8 rounds from the cereal rectangle. Refrigerate the rounds until ready to serve; the mixture softens up at room temperature, which makes it easy to cut through with a fork. 
  
Chocolate Chantilly 
1½ cups heavy cream 
6.3 oz milk chocolate, melted 
  
In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the cream on high speed to soft peaks. Fold half of the whipped cream into the melted chocolate. Fold in the remaining cream. Cover the bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve. 
  
Chocolate Phyllo 
7 Tbsp Clarified Butter 
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder 
8 (9 by 14-inch) sheets phyllo dough 
  
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a half-sheet pan with parchment paper and brush the paper with melted butter. 
  
2. In a small saucepan, melt the Clarified Butter over medium heat and whisk in the cocoa powder. 
  
3. Place a sheet of phyllo dough on the parchment paper–lined pan and brush it with some of the butter mixture. Place another sheet of phyllo on top. Repeat the layering until you have used 4 phyllo sheets. Brush the last sheet with the butter mixture and refrigerate the phyllo layers for 30 minutes, or until the butter has firmed up. 
  
4. Transfer the layers to a cutting board and, using a sharp chef’s knife, cut the phyllo stack into 5 by 2¼-inch rectangles. Cut each rectangle in half diagonally, forming long triangles; you will need 16 triangles. Arrange the triangles on the lined sheet pan and cover with another silicone baking mat to keep them flat during baking. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the phyllo triangles are crisp. Place the sheet pan on a wire rack and cool completely. 
  
Caramelized Nuts 
½ cup walnuts 
½ cup peanuts 
½ cup hazelnuts 
½ cupalmonds 
½ cup pistachios 
½ cup pine nuts 
1¼ cups granulated sugar 
¼ cup water 
  
1. Position two racks near the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. On a half-sheet pan, combine the walnuts, peanuts, hazelnuts, and almonds. On another half-sheet pan, combine the pistachios with the pine nuts. Bake the nuts for about 5 minutes, or until lightly toasted (see Toasted Nuts, page 346). Set aside to cool. 
  
2. Line a half-sheet pan with a piece of parchment paper. In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over medium-high heat until the sugar registers 242°F on a candy thermometer (soft ball stage). Add the toasted nuts and stir to coat them with the sugar syrup. 
Continue to stir the nuts over the heat until the sugar begins to crystallize and the nuts have turned golden brown. Using a wooden spoon, spread the nuts out onto the prepared sheet pan and let them cool completely. 
  
3. Once the nuts are cool, use your hands to break apart the clusters. 
  
Assembly 
Cocoa powder, for dusting 
  
Place a Rice Crispy Disk in the center of a plate. Dip a spoon in a container of hot water, dry it, and form a quenelle of Chocolate Chantilly. Place it on one half of the disk. Pile a mound of Caramelized Nuts in a mound next to the chantilly, filling up the rest of the space on the disk. Place another quenelle of Chocolate Chantilly next to the first quenelle. Dust the Phyllo Triangles with cocoa powder and lean two of the triangles against the chantilly. The triangles should cross at one point, forming an X shape. Pour the Caramel Sauce into a squeeze bottle and make three 1-inch dots of sauce on the plate; pull the tip of the squeeze bottle through them to connect them. Pipe a few smaller dots of sauce around the plate and garnish with a few more Caramelized Nuts. 

Brown Butter Roasted Pear with Maple Syrup and Vanilla-Prune Ice Cream

Makes 8 servings

A crisp round of puff pastry and baked almond cream—both made with a healthy amount of butter—serve as the base for this beautiful maple-glazed roasted pear. A flavorful Vanilla-Prune Ice Cream makes a simple, yet sophisticated, accompaniment. Be sure to use firm, yet ripe, pears in this dessert, so that they hold their shape during roasting.

Components
Sangria Prunes
Vanilla-Prune Ice Cream
Puff Pastry Rounds
Almond Rounds
Roasted Pear and Sauce
Streusel

Special Equipment
Cheesecloth; kitchen twine; ice cream machine; 2¾-inch round pastry cutter; 9-inch square baking pan; 2½-inch round pastry cutter; 1-inch round pastry cutter

Sangria Prunes

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 stick cinnamon
Zest of 1 grapefruit
Zest of 1 lemon
Zest of 1 orange
1 whole clove
1 cup red wine
1 cup white wine
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 cup prunes
 
1. Place the vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, citrus zest, and clove in the center of a square of cheesecloth and form the cloth into a pouch. Tie the ends with a piece of string and set aside.
 
2. Combine the red and white wine in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the spice pouch, sugar, and prunes and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan and simmer until the prunes are soft, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool the prunes in the liquid.
 
3. Remove the prunes from the syrup and coarsely chop them. Discard the spice pouch and liquid. Place the prunes in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
 
Vanilla-Prune Ice Cream
 
3 cups half-and-half
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
9 large egg yolks
1 cup granulated sugar
Sangria Prunes
 
1. Place the half-and-half and the vanilla bean pod and seeds in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and allow to infuse for 10 minutes.
 
2. Place the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk together until thickened and pale. Continuing to whisk, drizzle in half of the warm half-and-half. Return this mixture to the pan with the remaining warm half-and half and whisk to combine. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens slightly and reaches 175°F (79°C) on an instant-read thermometer. This should take about 4 minutes; do not let the mixture boil, or the egg yolks will curdle. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately strain the ice cream base through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Set the bowl of custard into a bowl of ice water and stir occasionally until it is cold. (At this point the custard base can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 day before freezing in the ice cream machine.)
 
3. Process the base in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions, adding the chopped Sangria Prunes during the final minute of churning. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and freeze for at least 4 hours before serving.
 
Puff Pastry Rounds

8 oz Puff Pastry (page 343) or store-bought puff pastry
1 egg, whisked with a fork with a small amount of water, for egg wash
 
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a half-sheet pan with a silicone mat.
 
2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the puff pastry out to a thickness of ⅛ inch. Using a 2¾-inch round pastry cutter, cut out 8 rounds from the dough. Refrigerate the rounds for 15 minutes. Place the chilled rounds on the prepared sheet pan and brush them with the egg wash. Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the rounds are golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely.
Leave the oven on at 375°F (191°C).
 
Almond Rounds
8¾ Tbsp unsalted butter
½ cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
1⅓ cups almond flour
2 large eggs
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp all-purpose flour
 
1. Coat the bottom and sides of a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the butter and sugar on medium speed until creamy and well blended, about 2 minutes. Add the almond flour and mix until blended. Reduce the mixer speed to medium-low and add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the flour and mix until blended. Scrape the almond mixture into the prepared pan, smoothing it into an even layer. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, or until golden brown. Place the pan on a wire rack and cool completely. Leave the oven on, but raise the temperature to 400°F (204°C) to bake the pears.

2. Using a 2½-inch round pastry cutter, cut out 8 rounds of baked almond cream. Using a 1-inch round cutter or the wide end of a pastry tip, cut out a 1-inch hole in the center of each round.
 
Roasted Pear and Sauce
4 ripe, firm Bosc pears
Juice of 1 lemon
5½ Tbsp unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
¾ cup maple syrup
 
1. Peel the pears, cut them in half (keeping the stems intact, if possible), and remove the cores. Rub the cut pears with lemon juice to prevent browning.
 
2. Melt 3½ tablespoons of the butter in a large ovenproof sauté pan. Add the vanilla bean pod and seeds and the pear halves, cut side down. Cook the pears until the butter browns and the pears turn brown around the edges, about 3 minutes on each side. Add the maple syrup and place the pan in the oven for 15 minutes, with the pears cut side down, basting them with the syrup twice during roasting, until they are tender when pierced with a skewer. Carefully transfer the pears to a plate.
 
3. Return the pan to the stovetop over medium-high heat and bring the maple syrup mixture to a boil. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter until melted. Carefully strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a microwave-safe container and set aside until you are ready to serve the pears. Warm the sauce in the microwave right before serving.   

Assembly
Place an Almond Round on top of a Puff Pastry Round and arrange them off center on a plate. Place a warmed Roasted Pear half on the round, using the hole to balance it. Sprinkle some Streusel on the plate and place a quenelle of Vanilla-Prune Ice Cream on top of it. Drizzle the pear with the reserved warm pear sauce. 

Rice Pudding with Szechuan Peppercorn Anglaise and Caramel Balsamic Sauce

Makes 8 servings
 
Pastry Chef Franck Iglesias, who was my nighttime sous-chef at Payard, came up with this dessert: a rice pudding parfait with mixed berries, a Szechuan Peppercorn Anglaise, and a caramel-flavored balsamic sauce. According to Franck, his grandmother made the best rice pudding ever, which he ate warm as a
kid—it was impossible for him to wait for it to cool. Franck used her handwritten recipe to create this version, a sophisticated reinterpretation of the original. Here Szechuan peppercorns lend a subtle floral accent, while the light acidity of balsamic vinegar balances the sweetness of the caramel.
 
Meringue sticks add a bit of crunch to this elegant parfait, a tribute to Franck’s “Mémé.”
 
Components
Caramel Balsamic Sauce
Szechuan Peppercorn
Anglaise
Rice Pudding
Meringue Sticks
Mixed Berries
 
Special Equipment
 ¼-inch, plain pastry tip (Ateco #3); eight 8-ounce wineglasses
 
Caramel Balsamic Sauce
1¼ cups granulated sugar
3 Tbsp glucose syrup
½ cup plus 2 Tbsp water
¼ cup balsamic vinegar (use an ordinary one, nothing too concentrated)
 
In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar, glucose, and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the water and cook over medium-high heat, occasionally washing down the sides of the saucepan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming, and watching carefully, until the syrup caramelizes and turns a medium amber color, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and carefully add the balsamic vinegar and the remaining ¼ cup water. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring, just until any hardened bits of sugar have dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside to cool.
 
Szechuan Peppercorn Anglaise
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp Szechuan peppercorns
1 sheet gelatin (silver grade)
6 large egg yolks
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
 
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cream, and peppercorns and cook over medium-high heat until the mixture comes to a gentle boil. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and allow to infuse for 20 minutes.
 
2. Fill a medium bowl halfway with cold water and add the gelatin sheet. Allow to soften for 10 minutes.
 
3. Strain the milk mixture and return it to the saucepan. Reheat until the mixture just begins to boil. Remove from the heat.
 
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale. Whisk about ½ cup of the hot milk mixture into the yolks, then return this mixture to the saucepan with the remaining milk mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon and reaches 175°F on an instant-read thermometer; do not let the mixture boil, or the egg yolks will curdle. Remove the pot from the heat. Drain the gelatin, squeezing it to remove the excess water, and add it to the hot custard, stirring until the gelatin has dissolved. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Set the bowl in an ice bath and stir frequently until cold. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to serve, or up to 3 days.
 
Rice Pudding
2 cups plus 1 Tbsp whole milk
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp granulated sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
½ cup Arborio rice
3 large egg yolks
1 cup plus 1 Tbsp heavy cream
 
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, sugar, orange zest, and vanilla bean pod and seeds and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in the rice and transfer the mixture to a medium, ovenproof casserole. Cover the casserole with aluminum foil and bake the rice mixture for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender.
 
2. Place the hot casserole on the stovetop and while still hot, whisk in the egg yolks. Cool completely.
 
3. Transfer the rice mixture to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.
 
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on high speed until it forms medium peaks. Gently fold the whipped cream into the chilled rice mixture. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
 
Meringue Sticks
3 large egg whites
⅓ cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
 
1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a half-sheet pan with parchment paper.
 
2. Place the egg whites and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and place the bowl over a medium saucepan filled one-third of the way with simmering water. Heat, whisking constantly, until the whites are warm to the touch and the sugar has dissolved. Transfer the bowl to the mixer stand and, using the whisk attachment, whip the whites on high speed until they are completely cool, about 5 minutes. Scrape the meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch, plain tip.
 
3. Pipe as many 2-inch-long sticks as you can onto the prepared sheet pan. Place the sheet pan in the oven and turn the oven off. Let the meringues dry for 1 to 2 hours, or until crisp. While the meringues are still warm, take a spatula and run it underneath the sticks to release them from the paper. Cool completely, then cut each stick in half crosswise and store in an airtight container until ready to serve.
 
Mixed Berries
1 cup fresh raspberries
1 cup fresh blueberries
Combine the berries in a bowl.
 
Assembly
Red currants, for garnish (eight 3-inch stems with berries attached)
 
The dessert should be assembled right before serving. Stir the Szechuan Peppercorn Anglaise until smooth, then spoon a layer of it into a wineglass. Top with a layer of Mixed Berries, then a layer of Rice Pudding, then Caramel Balsamic Sauce. Top the caramel with some Meringue Sticks and garnish with a stem of red currants.
 

Source URL: https://dujour.com/life/payard-dessert-recipes/