No one knows the Paris food scene better than food writer and cookbook author Trish Deseine. Her new book, The Paris Gourmet (Rizzoli), is a true testament to her expertise—it’s an insider’s guide to the best in French cuisine with tips for restaurants, Parisian-style entertaining and shopping for French ingredients. And Deseine would know: The Irish-born food writer has been living in France for nearly 30 years. “I’ve always felt at home in Paris,” she says. “The day-to-day beauty of the place is incredibly nourishing and stimulating, but I think the true love affair started in 2006, when I lived in a 6th floor walk-up loft in Belleville, looking over the rooftops towards the Eiffel tower. Pure cliché, I know, but why fight it?”
We tasked Deseine with putting together her list of Paris favorites—the best places for crepes, chocolate, croissants and more:
Best place for coffee:
“Things are looking up for coffee in Paris. My favorite spot is tall and roomy Coutume Café in the 7th for superior filter or espresso and lots of cool coffee making kits.”
Coutume Café
47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris
coutumecafe.com
Best place for a Croissant:
“It has to be Du Pain et des Idees near the Canal S.t Martin and Place de la Republique. The pastry is tight and dry, the ribbed folds hugely satisfying on the palate and the taste sweet and nutty.”
Du Pain et des Idees
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris
dupainetdesidees.com
Best place for Crepes:
“Anywhere on the street (but particularly in the Latin quarter) on a chilly winter’s night as long as they’re made to order and sweet. Nothing beats working through the crispy edges to the fudgy centre of a simple beurre sucre (butter and sugar).”
Best place for a Cocktail:
“I love the garden of the Mandarin Oriental—not particularly Parisian feeling, but the lush plant-clad alcoves are cozy andsexy according to your mood and company—and the staff adorable. For more inventive cocktails in the hippest bar in town right now, try the Marie Celeste in the Marais.”
Mandarin Oriental
251 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
mandarinoriental.com
Restaurant Mary Celeste
1 rue Commines, 75003 Paris
lemayceleste.com
Best place for Cheese:
“Marie Quatrehomme on rue de Sevres. There’s so much interest and help given as you choose your cheese; it’s more like a consultation than shopping. I love their Fontainebleau, light and fluffy fromage frais whipped with cream.”
Fromagerie Quatrehomme
62 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
quatrehomme.fr
Best place for Wine:
“The spectacular new wine cellar at La Grande Epicerie de Paris. It’s not cheap, but browsing in the new space is a delight with helpful, clued-in staff to hand.”
La Grande Epicerie
38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
lagrandeepicerie.com
Best place for Chocolate:
“Alain Ducasse’s new chocolaterie on rue de la Roquette. Made from bean to bar on site, with an intense and robustcharacter, the chocolate has been described as a ‘United Nations of taste.'”
Le Chocolat
40 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris
alain-ducasse.com
Best place for a Baguette:
“Not the prettiest boulangerie, but the bread is fabulous at 134 RDT (134 rue de Turenne). When I pop in for their excellent baguette, I usually come away with some white or dark chocolate bread too.”
134 RDT
134 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris
barapain.com
Best place for a Macaron:
“Pierre Hermé still rules supremely in the macaron kingdom. The regular creative collections are fun, but my all-time favorite remains the milk chocolate and passion fruit.”
Pierre Hermé
72 Rue Bonaparte, Paris
pierreherme.com
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