American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

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THE TOP PERFORMER

Joseph Altuzzara had the best show of the week. His relaxed silhouette combined menswear-striped shirts, softened in silk, matched with longer side-slit skirts, loosely attached with ties. This combination exemplified the way to wear the season’s new longer length. It allowed ease of movement and practicality but also delivered an alluring sensuality. His evening tuxedos, bare underneath, were attached with a simple glittering strap.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE REVISIONISTS

Celebrating his 10th year as designer at Calvin Klein (left), Francisco Costa pushed the house’s minimalist DNA to the next level with daring details like deconstructed side panels. But it was the layered sheer tunics over soft, longer skirts, and black-and-white tweed dresses that made the most sense. Proenza Schouler (center) had a more rigorous silhouette for spring. The highlights were stiff, tiered sleeveless dresses in a black-and-white graphic print and accordion-pleated evening dresses in painted lame. Victoria Beckham (right) showed a more relaxed and sportier silhouette than her norm including boxy tops and cropped fuller pants.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE COOL KIDS

Vera Wang (left) also went sporty, with mesh fabrics, bare midriffs and athletic details dominating her collection. Sleeveless silk dresses were ubiquitous, and her layered silk versions in cobalt blue were standouts. Donna Karan (right) used the shirt motif to great effect in indigo blue over a printed wrap short skirt.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE WANDERERS

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, in their collection for The Row (left), went nomadic, specifically to North Africa, for inspiration. Continuing their love of long lengths and loose layers, they chose a palette of black, cream and terra cotta. Their long black-and-white zigzag printed coat was spectacular. Maria Cornejo (right) also had an earthy vibe to her collection. Her white and black striped Egyptian cotton coat, tunic and skirt really stood out.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE YOUNG CROWD

Narciso Rodriquez (left) never moves his needle too far from his ‘90s aesthetic. He evolved his spring collection with complicated constructions subtly rendered in sheer fabrics to create a slew of short dresses that had undeniable élan. His strappy heels were the sexiest in town. Alexander Wang (center) endorsed the craze for men’s shirting, but in softer fabrics. Crop tops ran throughout, hinting that his fan base can support an exposed midriff. And Rag and Bone (right) offered a fantastic V-neck varsity sweater over a shirt tail-hem dress.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE LOYALISTS

Michael Kors (left) did what Michael Kors does best: create great classic American sportswear with just the right dose of luxe. Longer skirt lengths in fluid shapes from transparent chiffons to feminine ‘50s-printed dresses seemed just right. (Many in the audience had simultaneously channeled and worn the vintage dress trend as well.) A cashmere and sable “donut” stole topped the shoulders of a simple gray cashmere sweater over a white shirt and soft beige trousers. Nothing revolutionary, but I wanted it all!

Both Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta did outstanding jobs channeling their signature styles as well. Carolina’s collection (center) was her strongest in many seasons. Swirling lines were applied to layered tulle, creating optical illusions that were both highly original and very beautiful. Oscar de la Renta (right) just did very pretty clothes. His chic opener on Karlie Kloss, a double face coat, cardigan and check skirt, exemplified American sportswear at its best.

Prabal Garung (farthest right) emphasized evening, introducing pastels, as well as bolder colors, in satin cocktail dresses.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

THE REBELS

But it was two of fashion’s powerhouses, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs, who once again decided to go their own respective ways—and diametrically opposed ways to boot. Forgoing the need to be “on trend,” these two designers marched to their own drums. Ralph Lauren’s show (left) was an ode to the ‘60s, exhibiting a plethora of graphic black-and-white mod minis, followed by an injection of bold bright colors in both short dresses and long gowns.

Marc Jacobs (right), the most anticipated show of New York Fashion week, again closed the season. His collection was definitely not spring-like: Indeed, it was dark and gothic. From matador-like wool jackets embellished with beads and passementerie over slim shorts to romantic Victorian gowns worn with beaded high top sneakers, the collection was testament to his individuality. Whether you liked it or not, the collection was powerful and thought provoking—just the unexpected ending that New York fashion week needed.

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

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American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags:

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags:

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags:

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags:

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags:

American Sensibility: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Gallery

Harriet Mays Powell sums up the highlights from spring 2014’s strongest, most thought-provoking collections

Written by Harriet Mays Powell

Read the Full Story ≫

Tags: