If audience size is any indication of popularity, then Delpozo’s spring 2014 show was a definite demonstration of the Spanish label’s growing popularity. Arriving in New York last season, the house has since garnered plenty of attention, both local and international, sparking an almost overnight cult obsession from buyers at Moda Operandi, Barneys and Opening Ceremony. With an aesthetic more European in feeling, creative director Josep Font (who joined the label two seasons ago, debuting his first collection in Madrid for spring 2013), focuses on creating silhouettes that are destined for ready-to-wear but designed with couture-like tailoring—not to mention the volume and grandeur of ball gown silhouettes that he showed this season. These fairytale-esque designs, so different to the New York market and its focus on contemporary athletic-inspired wares, are no doubt the trigger to Delpozo’s quick rise to fame, as both editors, buyers and the public find otherworldly delight in pieces so different from the everyday.
This season’s show, delivered in an airy space filled with foliage-covered arches and lemon yellow gilt chairs, was, in true Delpozo style, a refreshing display of beautiful craftsmanship and romantic femininity. Font wooed show goers with a collection of teacup gowns in sheer pink tulles and cream jacquard, sunflower prints and neon floral motifs. This season also marked the first time Font has designed shoes and—to the joy of the betrothed Delpozo woman—a wedding gown for the label.
“I always have two different inspirations for a show,” Font told DuJour backstage before the start of the show, “and for this season they are quite opposite from each other.” One, a painting—’Gypsy Woman with a Drum’—and the other, “the glass windows above the cathedrals—of which I did extensive research,” he said. Full of light-as-air crinoline and embroidered organdy, his pieces—particularly standout teacup skirts and bias-cut tops in blush pink and cream—bring to mind light appearing through glass windows.
Constructed with the precision and elegance of a couture piece and full of exaggerated volume and tailored silhouettes, Font’s garments are ushering in a new fascination with wonderfully crafted statement pieces among a wide audience. “The Delpozo woman is no specific customer,” he explained. “Delpozo is an attitude, a feeling and an emotion. It is an elegance of being.”