Your Beard, But Better

by Natasha Wolff | November 4, 2015 12:00 pm

You’ve finally given your five o’clock shadow a chance to make a statement, but you’ve still got to keep it check. Below, we consult three master barbers from the top names in mens grooming for the only pointers you need to know.

Chris Hemsworth

Chris Hemsworth

Your Routine (What to Do)

The expert: Thomas Cheung, The Art of Shaving[1] (Tysons Corner in McLean, VA)
The inspiration: Chris Hemsworth, Ben Affleck, George Clooney. “They all have beard styles that are classic and well-groomed.

Daily: “I suggest all gentlemen with beards comb[2] or brush them. You don’t just wake up and go if you want to look your best. You wouldn’t leave the house without brushing your teeth or styling your hair. Hold your beard to the same standard.”

Weekly: “Depending on how quickly your beard grows and how you style it, you might want to take a pair of trimmers or a razor to line it up.”

Monthly:  “Just like a haircut, your beard needs a cleanup session. Go see a professional barber that knows about beards. Trim the stragglers, realign the borders, and shape up the beard to fit your face correctly. Most guys look better with a bit more weight on the beard towards the chin, and taper the beard the closer you get to ears to slim the face.”

 Your Look (What Not to Do)

The expert: Matt Wire, Harry’s Corner Shop[3] (64 MacDougal Street)
The inspiration: Jeff Bridges on the red carpet, not Keanu Reeves on a park bench

The most common mistake: “Trimming your neck beard too high. There’s nothing weirder than a guy who cuts the bottom of his beard high enough that it looks funny when they open their mouth. Trim no higher than the crease where your jaw meets your neck. It’s always better to have too much than too little.”

When in doubt: “Just knock it down to stubble with your electric clippers. More often than not, you’ll look better with a heavy five o’clock shadow than a beard that’s gotten out of line.”

Wire’s personal rule of thumb: “Use product only when absolutely necessary. Your facial hair is naturally healthier on its own. Maintain the shape not the hair itself.”

Adam Levine

Adam Levine

Your Tools & Products

The expert: José Sosa, Kiehl’s Since 1851[4] (678 Ninth Ave.)
The inspiration: Adam Levine. “He always has a nice, manicured beard.”

“The ideal beard is a perfect balance between clean-cut and wild.  It has sharp and defined lines around the edges, with everything else just slightly manicured to showcase the natural look and feel of the hair.”

The tools: “Trimmers, clippers, a straight razor and a master barber’s touch.”

The products: “Apply Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate[5] to soften the beard daily, so when someone comes in close for a hug, they don’t receive a prick from hard hair.  A few drops in the morning every day, just enough to coat the beard, goes a long way to soften it. Also, the longer the beard, the dryer the skin underneath, so use a rich moisturizer like Kiehl’s Facial Fuel[6], to keep the skin underneath healthy.”

 NEXT: The Only Do’s and Don’t’s You’ll Ever Need to Know[7]

George Clooney

George Clooney

DO

“Make sure having a beard is right for you. Some people don’t have the growth patterns or the face shape for a good looking beard. Don’t worry, clean faces are just as handsome.” -MW (Harrys)

DON’T

“Don’t try to wear a style that doesn’t work for your beard’s particular set of characteristics. Everyone’s beard has a different density, texture and structure. Some styles just won’t look good on some men.” -TC (The Art of Shaving)

DO

“Try to keep the style of your beard as natural as possible. A lot of men like to shape their beards in a style that the hair doesn’t naturally go, so maintenance is very high. If you keep your beard natural, the maintenance will be much easier.” -JS (Kiehl’s)

DON’T

“A beard isn’t just ‘not shaving.’ You still need to take care of your face even if you’re channeling your inner lumberjack.” -MW (Harrys)

DO

“Wash your beard like you would wash your hair.” -TC (The Art of Shaving)

DON’T

“Don’t neglect it with products that will keep it healthy and let it grow crazy without maintenance.” -JS (Kiehl’s)

Ben Affleck

Ben Affleck

Finally, When to Take It Off

“When you forget what your face looks like. Or when eating a bowl of soup requires you to move the beard out of the way.“ -MW (Harrys)

“When your wife gets tired of it.” -JS (Kiehl’s)

“When you don’t like it anymore. First, you’re a man. Second, you’re a man with a beard—do what you want!” -TC (The Art of Shaving)

Endnotes:
  1. The Art of Shaving: http://www.theartofshaving.com/
  2. comb: http://www.theartofshaving.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-TAOS-Site/default/ProductAB-Show?pid=00670535900115&tmt=productA1&start=5&cgid=grooming-and-skincare-hair-care&navid=grooming-and-skincare-hair-care
  3. Harry’s Corner Shop: https://www.harrys.com/cornershop
  4. Kiehl’s Since 1851: http://www.kiehls.com/
  5. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate: http://www.kiehls.com/Midnight-Recovery-Concentrate/819,default,pd.html
  6. Kiehl’s Facial Fuel: http://www.kiehls.com/Facial-Fuel/555,default,pd.html
  7.  NEXT: The Only Do’s and Don’t’s You’ll Ever Need to Know: http://dujour.com/beauty/how-to-maintain-and-groom-your-beard/2/

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